Santana to Funchal

It’s not quite 35 kilometres but, not having completed them, I believe they’ll seem more. Not so much by the ups and downs of the route, but especially by all they allow us to see, in terms of landscapes, history, culture and vegetation.

Ancient Caminho Real nr 24 (Royal Route) starts in Santana, at Cova da Roda. From there it goes through Lombo Galego, Fajã da Murta, Cruzinhas (700 metres), Fajã Grande de Baixo, Ribeira da Metade, Achada do Cedro Gordo, Ribeiro Frio, Chão das Feiteiras, Poiso (1400 metres, the highest point on the route), Ribeira das Cales, Terreiro da Luta (900 metres), Monte (550 metres) and Portas da Cidade.

Those who already used the road leaving Funchal through Monte to Poiso will certainly have seen, here and there, the remains of a cobbled route. It is clearly visible when leaving Terreiro da Luta, and later immediately after Poiso, and one crosses it a number of times until Ribeiro Frio.

The Royal Route was the logical route, over land, for those travelling from the North (São Jorge to Faial), to Funchal.  An alternative, for those who had the means to do so, would be to take the boat, starting from one of the small harbours on the coast, but especially the one at Ribeira de São Jorge, to proceed to the capital.

Today, and besides all the stops one can enjoy along the route, don’t miss the laurisilva, in the valley of Ribeiro Frio. Go off the route to visit Balcões. Visit the monument to Our Lady of Peace, in Terreiro da Luta. And take the opportunity to go up to the tower of the church of Monte, already on the way into the city. In Poiso one can stop, for some rest and recreation, to warm up, and to continue, towards the city or Santana, depending on which way one is going.

Here and there there will be impassable stretches, covered by vegetation, or cut by new roads. But it is always possible to go around these obstacles, and go on on one’s way.

Good walking!

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