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Don’t let the ukulele die

By People Who Mark 4.474 Comments

And if someone was to tell you that the famous ukulele, so enjoyed by the tourists in Hawaii, had its origins in Madeira’s “braguinha”? And if one were to tell you the story of the 120 Madeirans that arrived to that archipelago and thought it so much alike Madeira that they immediately felt at home?

This was the story told by Susana Caldeira, a researcher that found a way to Hawaii (even though a different one to the one used by the thousands of Madeirans in late 19th century) to find that Madeira is a lot more present in those islands than people generally think.

She had two small kids when she got on a plane and for over two months unearthed the past of those men and women who consider themselves to be … eighth generation Portuguese.

She walked on Funchal Street, one of the many with Portuguese names, she heard the fado, the “Bailinho da Madeira” and Portugal’s national anthem even before they explained that they didn’t understand the meaning of what they were saying as they had lost all knowledge of Portuguese. But they understood the meaning of “saudade” *, and about feelings, and that, says Susana, no one will be able to take away from them for the next generations.

This wasn’t, by any means, the aim of her original work. The intention was to ransack Madeira’s regional archive looking for references to D. Estevão de Alencastre, a native of Porto Santo who became bishop of Hawaii. But asking a researcher to close his or her eyes when she sees hundreds, thousands, of potential threads in front of her is the same as covering a maestro’s hears during a concert.

The film started passing on the screen of her real life, and shortly afterwards she was in Honolulu. She was received with open arms by people she didn’t even know, descendents of the some twenty thousand Portuguese who disembarked in Hawaii during the years following the arrival of the first ship, in 1878, with 120 people coming from various Madeiran parishes. She felt right at home. She ate marinated pork, fried dough and other Madeiran tastes that crossed two oceans and many generations.

She returned with a full heart. More than one century after the first Madeirans set their feet on that soil. But with an enormous will to return there every day. And taking our own histories inside her suitcase.

Of the Madeirans, she learned, during her research, that they were recommended by a German doctor that lived in Hawaii for twenty years and then passed through Madeira, writing to the Pacific islanders on the striking similarities existing between the two archipelagos. He recommended that they would send, from the other end of the world, for labourers in Madeira as they were, in the eyes of those receiving them, better than the Chinese to work, as that previous experiment had failed. Besides, the Chinese worker had taken with them diseases that had become fatal for the vast majority of the local inhabitants.

For this reason, continues the researcher with remarkable enthusiasm, it was necessary to replenish the labour force with people, according to the German doctor, “who look clean, healthy, well poised, and with the ancient manners of the Portuguese and Spanish races”. The text goes on, stating that “as a race, they are moderate, hard working, sparing and obedient. They come to stay, and will not send their money out of the country, like the other nationalities. We trust in the Emigration Board, in view of the success reached by this first bet in Madeira”. And he strongly recommended that they’d come to Madeira to seek more people willing to join the first who had gone, made out og 19 couples, three single women, 36 children and 46 single men. They all arrived in good health, with masons, carpenters and mechanics, even though the initial goal was that they’d all work on the sugar cane plantations, so well known in the Atlantic island.

Today, Susana talks of the woman who sings the fado with a Viana do Castelo scarf and goes emotional. And so does the audience. With neither understanding any Portuguese, but proudly showing their origins in the answers given to the researcher: I am Portuguese. With names, surnames and Madeiran diets, and a braguinha, sorry, an ukulele (jumping flea), by the way Madeiran João Fernandes seemed to scratch himself, seen by the eyes of the governor’s wife, and where the chords from many generations ago aren’t missing. There are those who link the name to the “gift that came from afar”, the present carried by the Madeirans who for 120 days echoed through the two oceans of the original voyage.

Almost 130 years later, Madeira keeps strong roots in Hawaii. The researcher rekindles every day the will of rapprochement between the two peoples who, thus, became one. The twinnings completed meanwhile, with Honolulu, in 1979, and Maui, in 1985, didn’t really go beyond paper, but on those old streets with Portuguese names, with the scents of marinated pork, many of our ancestors left their imprints, like dry stone walls, buildings names Faria, mendonça and Araujo, while the community also boasts Teixeiras, Silvas, Freitas, Pereiras and Camachos. Eight generations after João Fernandes arrived with his braguinha, which made Hawaii so well known, we ask but that one does not let our culture across the world die.

 

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* Saudade: a deep emotional state of nostalgic or profound melancholic longing for an absent something or someone that one loves. It means missingness. Moreover, it often carries a repressed knowledge that the object of longing might never return…

Saudade was once described as “the love that remains” after someone is gone. Saudade is the recollection of feelings, experiences, places, or events that once brought excitement, pleasure, well-being, which now triggers the senses and makes one live again. It can be described as an emptiness, like someone or something that should be there in a particular moment is missing, and the individual feels this absence. It brings sad and happy feelings altogether, sadness for missing and happiness for having experienced the feeling.

Saudade is a word that claims no direct translation in English. “Tenho saudades tuas”, translates as “I have (feel) saudade of you” meaning “I miss you”, but carries a much stronger tone.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saudade

Maria, Madeira in São Paulo

By People Who Mark 427 Comments

No, Maria wasn’t born in Madeira. But does this really make a difference? She was born with Madeira in her heart, and in the life she chose for herself – she calls herself a “folklorist” – she seeks out the traditions and customs of her parents’ (they were both born in Machico) island.

She was already born in São Paulo, which is also where she was married with Pedro (who funnily enough was also born in Brazil – even if only by a matter of days, also of Madeiran parents), and where she does what she does, always close to Casa da Madeira in São Paulo.

Her connection to Madeira’s folklore started almost per chance. She heard of an international folklore festival which was to take place in Madeira, and asked for a meeting with the managers of Casa da Madeira, and while waiting for the end of a meeting explained her project to a few other people who were there also. Even before starting the meeting with the management she had already gathered some of what she needed, and on her first trip to Madeira she had her say in this festival, stating that she was there to study Madeira’s folklore, and that she wanted to promote it and divulge it in Brazil. She had brought an empty suitcase, but it didn’t remain empty for long – when she returned she had samples, and costumes of the Madeira folklore which are still kept in the group she runs, under the auspices of Casa da Madeira.

One of the first people she got to know was D. Arsenia, of Casa do Povo do Curral das freiras, which she still sees and visits whenever she visits Madeira. And in the meanwhile, over the years, she kept gathering garbs and traditions of the island.

She was invited to be a “conselheira da diáspora” (diaspora councilor), and she says she understood the invitation as a mission. The mission to do all she can for Madeirans in Brazil, and for Brazilians in Madeira, thus completing the bridge between the two cultures.

To keep the folklore group and cover the costs of its activity, they organize every year a sort of Madeira arrayal (feast), with stall where local Madeira dishes are served: espetada (grilled meat on a skewer), gaiado e semilhas (skipjack tuna with potatoes), favas de escabeche (fava beans pickles), pregos no bolo caco (steaks sandwich, served inside Madeira’s special bread) and sopa de trigo (wheat soup), accompanied by poncha (local drink made with honey, lemon and orange juice and rum) and the bebida de arraial  (mix of orange soda and wine). The folklore group doesn’t pay her a salary, but “the smiles and the shine in the eyes of those seeing and taking part” are, says Maria, “the best type of payment”. The group participates in weddings and christenings, as well as in a restaurant in north São Paulo, in São Roque, the Quinta do Olivardo, where there is also wine harvesting and the pressing of grapes. In this restaurant, there is Madeira gastronomy and, says Maria, “we made the arrayal flowers together”.

Maria is a sweetheart – I know because I spoke to her. And everything she says comes straight from her heart, and is really felt. As the love and the care she confers on the island and its inhabitants is felt. The inheritance, in effect, that she received from her parents.

Loving diversity

By People Who Mark 4.578 Comments

When one dances with difference, the tune is different also. I understood that when I spoke with the man one remembers when speaking of the differences between these men and women who make us shudder, who make us cry, and who show what they are made of.

It has now been going on for sixteen years, this “dancing with difference”. Sixty cities in twenty countries later, the group created by Henrique Amoedo has nothing left to prove to those who watch them and admire them, since that first stage and the announced last performance in difficult times.

Speaking with Amoedo is seeing the emotions of so many years in his eyes, of a work that wasn’t always understood, and through his eyes, see the love held in his soul for those boys and girls that he found one day, here and there, with the help of Ester Vieira. It was one of those twists of fate that placed them in the same room, many years ago, in Porto, where the man that is the face of this group of “different” people was teaching a course. The teacher/actress saw the whole potential of the man who had created a pioneer group in Brazil called “Roda Viva”.

And the whirlwind of his life eventually took him to a lost island, while he completed his masters. He had time to study during the day, while he taught during the evening. And he stayed on. Day after day, week after week, a month after another. He stayed on, with a package of ideas he developed through the months, until he created the dream many people now live. He tells me of his creation, with the pride of one who saw it born and even multiply. Nowadays the project “Dançando com a diference” (dancing with difference) exists elsewhere in Portugal, namely in Santa Maria da Feira and Viseu, almost as if one had created a sort of franchise of the original idea.

I looked up to him with the sort of admiration one looks onto a sculptor, to the work that passes through his mouth as he tells what he did with that group of stars that shine and make our eyes shine.

I went through those years, those shows rehearsed for months on end to make those who believe smile and cry, but especially those, the thousands, who were converted along the way. I look onto a father, in front of me, who speaks of those tens of kids with a tenderness that only a special person like he could have.

Were it not for that, and we would never have, today, what is an internationally acclaimed group due to the recognition of the aesthetical artistic characteristics of those who spend part of their days there.

But the most striking in the group – besides, of course, its main raison d’etre, the artistic factor – is the great concern about the educational and terapeutical aspects, which are worked in the secondary groups associated with this entity. Because despite the fact that they are a “main” group of 21 elements, all the others deserve the same attention and the same care by the task force.

It wasn’t all easy. When I ask what the most difficult moment was, the answer comes slowly, after his gaze wandered by the wall behind me, looking for words. As if the story of the last year was written there. Then, with a sigh that he kept for a few seconds, Henrique raises the matter of “Desafinado”, in Porto Santo, a performance in which he wasn’t present due to other professional chores. Despite being far from them, his thought was always with those people who didn’t know, that day, whether they’d ever step on a stage in their lifes.

It isn’t difficult to understand his pain in the moment he speaks of this past. Of the difficulties he had in going ahead with a project that has, funnily enough, a partnership all ready to go, starting in 2018, to establish an Artistic Occupation Centre, a pioneer in Portugal, that will develop its activity through art of mobility.

But there was another moment, which will accompany him his whole life. That of the group’s first trip, to Brazil, when they took part in an international festival where his origins were also present – Roda Viva. Going back to his country, with a project he was eveloping abroad, meet people he had worked with, was a mix of emotions, but above all it was a moment in which the students understood they weren’t the only ones, and that they weren’t as good as they imagined. They came down to earth, they learned a lot, especially after Amoedo asked a colleague to give his pupils a “real” class, and they understood how far they had still to go.

When he finishes a show he isn’t overly expansive. He doesn’t start kissing and hugging the pupils, he congratulates when he likes it, and remains quiet when he doesn’t. Which is worrying. He takes a lot longer to get to his actors. He prefers to breathe in many times, even though the audience applauded profusely.

In April they will leave home again. They’ll fly to the mainland, and expand their horizons. Blame it on the man who’s always planning, and executing. Who’s always thinking.

foto: GDD

From all these years, he has special memories of the preparing of “Endless”, which lasted two years. It was part of a European project involving partners from other countries, like Germany, Poland, Lithuania and Estonia. The planning of the project stated that each of the partners would handle a different area, with the Madeira group being responsible for the dancing. The theme? The holocaust. They had to visit mythical places, explore the city of Berlin, they had to understand Nazism, and what this all meant for the other partners involved, namely the Poles and the Germans.

“Dançando com a Diferença” isn’t just another group. It’s a name, a brand. For better and for worse, says Henrique. Because it is necessary to sustain the huge weight of the name that is already known. The man who idealized, and who adopted Madeira with the Brazilian heart that hears the people that approach him, sometimes just because he instills the trust that allows them to do it…

Henrique is soft. Like only those who love children can be. Like those who know what they have in their hands, when kids are “taken” from the special education, and made special, when he takes them to a stage and values them. When he treats them as equals within the difference given them by nature, or by destiny. Because together they built the project that, today, teaches us to appreciate difference.

 

The man who keeps Madeira live in Jersey

By People Who Mark 4.332 Comments

Joe (or João Carlos) Nunes. This is how he is known ever since he moved to Jersey, some forty years ago. He was born in Funchal, in the Levada do Cavalo area, but eventually moved to Livramento. He completed his military service in Funchal and worked for General Motors. And then he got fed up with Madeira.

No, let us rewrite this last sentence. He didn’t get fed up with Madeira, he got fed up with the constraints that were imposed on him in the Madeira of forty years ago. And it was after a he was stopped from going to work in Cahora Bassa that he eventually moved to Jersey. He was offered a position in General Motors, which would entail moving to Stuttgart, Germany, but he was closer to the British than to the Germans, so he went to work in hospitality in Jersey.

It lasted less than a year. After a year, he started doing the maintenance of a bakery, which he did for many years – even after he merged out into different interests. He now owns a small hotel, after having worked in the import and upkeep of motor vehicles. And he is happy in Jersey, where he increasingly tries to promote Portuguese and Madeiran traditions.

He is very much involved with the Portuguese community, and whenever he comes to Funchal he tries in some way to increase the dynamics of the twinning of St Hellier and Funchal. Because, he says, people need their roots, and their communities, and the twinning gives the Portuguese community – and especially the Madeiran one – a profile it would not otherwise have.

In fact, from the conversation we had, we immediately understand the joy he drives from “being” this bridge, and by the esteem he has, for Madeira, where he was born, and Jersey, where he set himself up and where he lived most his life. Otherwise, he is a quiet person, thoughtful, and that always tries to contextualize an answer to a question. And who ponders his answer not only in his own experience, but also in that of the community he is part of, with a special emphasis on the protection and promotion of the interests of the Portuguese who live in Her Majesty’s island.

Of the Portuguese in Jersey, he says they are well thought of. That they are hard working. And that they create no problems. On the Madeirans, specifically, he says they adapt better to the island. Maybe because they are already used to living onm one… But in Jersey, “we are all Portuguese”, he adds.

On Jersey, he says it’s still a quiet place, where people have no hurry, and where there is still time for everything. The population has been growing, just like the Portuguese community, of some ten thousand people, “plus the temps”.

It is a very active community, which may be explained by the fact that it is very concentrated, and because there are cultural and recreational activities that keeps it aware of its origins. And if the Clube português is now a shadow of what it once was, the truth is that there is a commission that organizes the Portugal and Madeira days, as well as a Portuguese Food Festival that takes place every summer in the centre of St Hellier, with Portuguese food and beverages, but also music. “We always make a point that there is a Portuguese singer taking part in the festivities”.

And this is how one keeps roots alive.

I am due to a geographical error

By People Who Mark 4.349 Comments

sofia-maul

I started with the intention of telling the storyteller’s story, but Sofia had other plans.

It was almost as if letters, words and ideas flowed out of that very same persons who so captivates youth and adults.

In the terrace, on that windy Saturday morning, the wind would occasionally play with the blond hair of the granddaughter of Gunther Maul, the first to arrive in Madeira with that surname.

The woman who told me her story – her story – is no longer the different young girl, with chameleon green eyes freckles and very light hair who went to school in Madeira and who was keenly observed by children with dark eyes and brown eyes.

Her grandfather (his father’s father) didn’t like the cold, and started sending cvs to warm places, receiving an answer from New Zealand (in six months time) and another from Madeira (effective immediately).

With a Jewish background, and in the aftermath of world war one, the option was to leave Hamburg as soon as possible.

He quickly became part of the foreign community residing in the island, and was known as Gerry – the term used for Germans during the war. Then, says Sofia with her blue eyes almost closed due to midday glare, he stopped using his native tongue, and didn’t speak of his family. Deliberately.

One day he was at the then Country Club – now Quinta Magnolia – when he saw a young British girl playing tennis. She didn’t talk about her father, but her mother was financially independent, and they used to spend holidays in warm places. As with all love stories, this one also has letters and promises of eternal love. And with the help of her nanny, they wrote for many years. And on the day she turned 21 he went to fetch her, with the money he had saved.

They married four days later, in a London chapel. A disgrace for her mother, for besides being German, he was also poor and without a family. She was disinherited.

Two children were born of this marriage. By this time I am already hooked on the story, and I can feel we are close to the closing. Sofia drinks a bit of tea, as if to turn a page.

On her mother’s side the story is almost as interesting. There was a Californian grandfather, with a Swedish ancestry, who became auctioneer when he went back home. He would ransack barns and trunks, finding antiques which he would then restore and sell.

One day a doctor told him to go somewhere warm for a vacation, and someone told him of a wonderful holiday in Maiorca. He went to the travel agency, and didn’t go past the first syllable. When he got to “Ma…ma…ma”, the travel agent helped him say “Madeira”.

Smiling, the woman with two different earrings stresses: “I only exist due to a geographical error by the travel agent”. He came here, he bought a house here, he brought his family, and eventually a granddaughter got to know Sofia’s father. Her mother, Swedish, married the son of a German, and they now have four Muslim grandchildren. But we’ll get there…

Let’s get back to Sofia. The kid who wanted to be a biologist, and discover more than the Natural History Museum where her grandfather received so many thousands of kids through the years. The years went by, and the story teller, protestant and student in a catholic school, lived her own life, creating her own memories. She and her brother followed their family’s footsteps, and got their own families, with “different” people. As was tradition, after all. She, with a Senegalese, the brother with a Malay. So much so that her father laughs, saying that if one had told him that all his four grandchildren would be muslim he would have laughed. The brother converted in the catacumbs of a London bookshop, and the three kids are cousins of her daughter, and enchanting mix of two races that couldn’t have had better results. Bali is gorgeous, sweet, and very, but very, extrovert, after the first twenty seconds. It isn’t hard to find where her genes come from…

She went to Coimbra to train as an interpreter. The plan was to work for four months per year, and be a marine biologist in the other, and she knew she’d have to complete a degree in both areas. But she had what it takes. She was asked to complete jobs that got her physically sick. “Words left my mouth with which I didn’t agree, while I translated the ideas, and I quit”. Her parents separated, to help all these emotions and, to top it all, she was afraid to fall asleep, because she was part of a Red Cross ambulance and frequently has nightmares about the cases she transported.

She came back to Madeira. She even looked at driving industrial machines, so big was the despair of finding something. She tripped on speech therapy. One more “marriage”, this time between linguistics and the brain, which fascinated her so much that she didn’t hesitate to take the course. The deal with her father was that he would finance the course if she kept her grades above 16. And her stubbornness paid off, because when she finished her degree she started working in a school, with two basic languages: the first was gestural language, and the second was Portuguese, written and spoken. She was the first to do this in Portugal, along with a colleague who is still doing it.

She naturally received plenty of different work propositions, and for a number of years taught in bilingual schools in the Estoril area. She did well. She met the father of her daughter, she got pregnant, and she didn’t look back. Sofia had the habit of telling a story, at the end of her sessions with her students, and one day she was invited to hear stories being told in the Oeiras library. She didn’t hesitate. She was smitten by a course in storytelling, and her life changed. Again. She joined a storytellers’ group that had been created, and that we know as “Contabandistas”.

The group grew. They started promoting storytelling events. She returned to Madeira, permanently, in February 2015, over two years after having told a story as a thank you for the group who went to plant dragon trees in the mountains, after the 2012 fires.

Life became more complicated after she separated in 2014.

She came back to the island, and she held on to the stories as one holds onto a teddy bear, until – she recognizes – everything falls apart. Because one of the most important things in a storyteller is knowing where the audience wants to go.

There’s a specific language – her own and the group’s – that everyone follows. She does not usually see people yawn, or watch the phone, she captivates them with her blue eyes and her relaxed attitude. She only tells stories that move her. It must have to do with freedom. She likes to alternate between traditional tales, life stories and texts with author. She adapts and translates a few things. She makes them better, with her own personal touch, but she always says where the story comes from, and who wrote it. She ends up by embellishing words in the same one way one decorates a Christmas tree, tenderly and very carefully, so that those to whom the story is being told can build their own bridges.

I wanted to know when she realized that that was what she wanted to do, that that was what filled her heart with words that can’t be described. It was with adults. Kids have very lively memories, but they aren’t so demanding. That’s why they are abandoned to their own reading as soon as they learn to read. Sofia explains: “when we enter kindergarten, the teachers tell us stories, but when we get to primary school, our parents think that, just because we learned to read, we can enchant ourselves”. And she adds, in a serious tone: “for years I was unable to hear Brazilian, because I remember my parents watching Gabriela, and we waited – my brother and I –, at the top of the stairs, that the programme would finish so that we could be told the stories we really liked”.

And that why she likes stories of life, that why she keeps coming back to these. We only know where we are going to if we know where we came from. For now, we know only that her smile wanders through the city. If you want to hear a story, sit comfortably and enjoy the blue eyed story teller, the Madeiran who loves the island where she was born due to a geographical error. An error she doesn’t regret.

The “picturer” of emotions

By People Who Mark One Comment

sara-10

She signs everything she does with her soul, and questions herself even – after all she is a scientist. On one side she has the inheritance of her father, who’d picture her, alone or with her brothers, as naturally as possible, on the other she has her mother, who’d doll them up on the set dates in which they were to visit the photograph, with a set scenery and flashes shaped like umbrellas.

Sara Reis Gomes is the author of many recent photos of babies and their families that we see in the social networks, but she never imagined, three years ago, that she’d so passionately grab what had been dormant since her childhood.

Marine biologist, married, mother of four, she decided, during a brief spell in a hospital, to organize the pictures of the four, one of them just one year old. She owes to that coup of life the discovery of the passion she has for photography, when in the Nini Design Centre she recalls the first steps of this second coming of the images one puts away.

Sitting by the bar where the tourists of two boats arrive, she looks to the sun through the glass. She is trained as a scientist and has the soul of a mother. The mother who wanted to keep just the best moments – and not all, because one doesn’t need a hundred pictures of a bay’s first year to later remember how he was. After all, her mother just took them to the photographer with one, six and twelve months. But her father was there, to picture her when the dresses weren’t pressed, and the hair tidily combed and tied in ribbons.

But there is something she misses, now that she has started working on Christmas cards ordered by her faithful clients: the simplicity of the accoutrements in the shiny 10x15cm sheets given to grandparents, uncles and godparents.

Today, she stresses, there are so many decorations on the pictures that people get distracted from the main element, the pictured person. And it is against this that she has been fighting in the workshops she develops, and which have been consistently packed. But she is already preparing the ones for next year, one of which to take place at the Nini Design Centre, adding that there will be room for all – “even if I have to create more openings”, she says, smiling.

I look to the mother of four kids, aged between 3 and 14, and I wonder if her day won’t have more hours than all others. Especially when one of them suffers from dyslexia, a disorder that made her start the “Would you mum” blog, that is reinventing itself at this point. She spoke of the student, the son, the child who, instead of reading, would join up the letters, and would thus take longer than the others. And of her decision to take him to Lisbon, looking elsewhere for answers. Including the internet. Her scientist side led her to always question. It took her to study the brain more than many other mothers, and to always explain to her eldest what was going on with him. She didn’t hide the disorder. But she soon found that she was having a monologue, rather than a dialogue. People hid the disorder from their kids. They refused to face it. Sara got very close to neurodevelopment, it became one more resident of the house. They got used to it every day, and the youngest grew up with a brother that required some extra attention. Like all kids do.

She neglected the blog with the same speed in which she picked up photography. She managed to keep them both for some time, but eventually the passion for the “click” and the great moment in which the photo is transformed spoke louder.

Today we speak of the mother who has, since 2002, kept images that her kids will one day see, with no photographer’s poses or combed hairs or ribbons.

She is not afraid to discard the accessory, sticking to what’s important, and has taught just that to many mothers cycling through her workshops, especially enjoying sharing smiles, expressions and emotions that generate smiles. And that why she is so passionate about the children she sees growing through her lenses, the children she attracts to her arms when she wants to capture some of their mischief or chewing on their mother’s chin, in a gentle and unique gesture that she steals into her camera.

It is difficult to remain indifferent to her work. So much so that her style is already recognizable, when someone publishes pictures of a baby’s evolution through its first year, a work that sometimes startrs even before it has wore its first clothes. Yellow or any other colour. Even if the picture, the one everybody talks about, is black and white. It all depends on what one wants to convey. Some pictures are better like this, others require colour to give them life. It is the moment, but above all the emotion that dictate what becomes of the millions of bytes she keeps in her computer and is delivered to the increasing number of clients that seek her services. Like the clients that enter the place where Madeiran designer Nini keeps her creations. These quite a bit heavier than an image, but that also generate a lot of emotions, judging by the tourists that surround us, camera poised and smart phones pointed. I even fear that this will distract my guest, and that she will start giving hints to the amateurs all around us.

Let us go back to time. Of her capacity to organize day to day grind with four children and her work as a biologist. She smiles when she says that after a certain hour, at home, one stops hearing the word mom to start hearing dad. And then, in a softer tone, she seems to confess that her kids’ grades dropped when she started this adventure, but the tone then changes to justify the inevitable: they would eventually have to start studying on their own. She thus delegated responsibilities earlier, even though she counts on the unconditional support of her husband.

I see two women in a single body. Like they are parts of one of those pieces surrounding us designed by Nini. One methodical and inquisitive, always trying to find the whys, by profession, the other one relaxed, that lets her kids scratch and grow with scars, because it’s all a part of growing. If there’s a camera close, good. If not, it doesn’t matter. There will always be another moment. And it’s difficult to fathom where one starts and the other ends, because the relaxed one is a perfectionist, and likes to add technical touches to mini models that aren’t always in the best position for the clothing catalogue.

I thought I should avoid the question, because the answer would be obvious, but it was stronger than me. I wanted to know whether she had taken “the” picture, if that moment, the one that touched her, has already happened. The denial was faster than the shutter of a camera.

She says that what she enjoys is photographing children, landscapes aren’t for her lenses. She likes to picture families, but she doesn’t go as far as those printed in sepia that include a dog on the master’s feet and the patriarch sitting with all others standing around him. The technical explanation for black and white photographs is in the fact that it concentrates on people’s expressions, not on the red skirt or the patterned jacket.

In the post-production she does at home, instinctively, she chooses the result when the photograph survives the triage that discards all the others. She knows whether it will be colours or no colours. And she repeats: “I use instinct a lot”. Even the though the explanation she givesme, later, is by the “other” woman living inside her, that says that “because of my son’s dyslexia I read a lot on neurobiology and I got a better notion of how our brain works. Her biologist side says that visual information is more quickly read than verbal”. And that part, she admits, is more important than photographer techniques. But what’s really good is “when you can get it all”.

Summing up, “the spontaneity of the moment and the clinical eye that discovers what the look of the portrayed person wants to convey is a lot more interesting than a technically perfect picture, without soul, and that leaves us indifferent. And the people who increasingly seek her out, to remember those small moments that only a photographer with emotions can capture, know that.

The pebbles’ artist

By People Who Mark 1.947 Comments

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I entered the gray building on the crossing of rua dos Netos and rua dos Ferreiros, in Funchal, and I quickly got lost between the pebbles spread on the floor. I know the Portuguese designer that’s used to being of famous Ted’s conferences is waiting, but at the same time she made it clear she didn’t want me to ask too many questions. Her time, in that as in all other days, is counted in hectic minutes not relaxed hours.

Her time, at the moment I climb the carpeted stairs, embroidered by a white painted wooded railing stairs, is the time to sit for a while in the wide open space of the top floor of the dark gray building, where fifteen people go about their different jobs.

This is where her creations come from, this is where her plans are materialized, this is where the team, subdivided into various specialities, is supervised from. Nothing leaves those computers before being vetted by a pais of light eyes behind black-rimmed glasses, just like the clothes she wears when not using white.

One could think that her life has no colour, that her life, ever since she said her first word – Nini – has no flowers or patterns, but Nini Andrade Silva – she doesn’t remember she’s called Isabel – is a lot more than that. She doesn’t always show it, because it’s not always easy to be able to see her. She spends most of her time stuck in airplanes, flying from one continent to another, chasing the dream she had when she was born, 54 years ago, because she always wanted to be the woman she is today. And that perhaps why she states her age with a smile…

She occasionally lifts her eyes from a computer screen to answer a question made from across the room. She controls everything, wherever she is, and I will understand this later, when I finally manage to sit her for ten minutes at the work table where she almost becomes part of the shop where tourists enter to see her.

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I stuck around, almost invisible, seeing her decide one and another thing, only forbidden from photographing the work being made for the future Savoy. I walked down to the lower level, where pebbles are still to be found everywhere. In necklaces and bracelets, in sofas and garden furniture. I felt at home. So much so that in a while, when Nini walked down and joined me to explain a few details of one or two pieces I had seen. Asked me to stay around for a while longer, for she had to solve one or two little things before her next flight, the next day.

She disappeared behind the purple curtain that divides her workstation from the rest of the shop and I heard her at times, on the phone and talking to those descending the stairs. She seems to recognize, by the steps, who’s coming up or down…

Finally, she calls me to join her. She has those miraculous minutes for us to talk about her life, drawn in a straight line, well, forever. Hre brand, like the black or white clothes. I immediately ask what the connection is and the answer, like someone not wishing to lose any time, because shortly someone walking up or down the stairs is ure to need to ask a question, and the answer comes back sooner than I expected.

She sais that if she’s wearing black she’ll put some tennis on and go to the beach, and with heels and a scarf she’ll go out to dinner – with the same trousers and the same tunic. The same is true for white. And, because she’s always moving, if it’s cold she wears black, if it’s warm she wears white. It’s that simple.

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She smiles with the eyes. The same eyes who have visualized the hotels she decorates all over the world, and which have earned her the most coveted design awards. She smiles with the hands which have created the art objects that make her recognized throughout the world. Who support the lives of the close to a hundred people that, directly or indirectly, depend on her success. There are salaries to be paid every month, and if she doesn’t create to be good in what she does, she won’t get the commissions that allow her to cover expenses. And she goes back to the colours explanation, saying that if she wore colours, or flower patterns, for example, she would be unable to produce her pieces, as her mind would only produce flowers and drawings with the colours of her clothing, because – as those who know state – it is disturbing.

Nini has a principle in life that I recall. I heard it from her many years ago and I never forgot it. “Backwards, not even to gain momentum”. She smiles. Suddenly she turns towards the curtain and asks, “Is Americo there?”. I get puzzled. She may have remembered to ask something, her mind works like that, and I think she may suddenly have remembered something. Américo comes from the other side of the purple curtain. And Nini introduces the Venezuelan who gave her the sentence for the first time. She repeats it in Spanish. She smiles and gets back to work. So, it’s not hers, but it might just has well have been. Her route through life has always been a straight line, further and further away from her fist years, but always with Madeira as a safe heaven. This is where she feels at home, in a life filled with tricks that perform small magic. Like the habit of always returning to the same rooms, whenever she repeats stays in hotels, to feel just a bit closer to each of them. Which isn’t difficult, as the hotels designer has hotels and prizes spread through various continents. And there isn’t one she likes more than another, all her jobs were special, just as if they were the children she never had.

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She wants to do things before “she goes away”, as she puts it. Without wanting to explain what this means, but saying that people thank her for the energy and inspiration she gives them. As she prepares to do, this month, in Ted conferences in Budapest. Like she did in Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia. She is asked to proffer conferences through the world. And she is happy if a single person in the audience gets the message. She cires easily. She is not insensitive, like the pebbles she designs.

“I am the bringing together of all the people who crossed and cross my life”. She smiles. “I didn’t do anything on my own, and my name is no longer me”. It’s a brand.

She likes to make things happen. To make people dream. She’ll proffer conferences, if necessary, at 10pm, and she likes to pass her energy on to someone. Because people deserve it. At any time.

She talks of the Design Centre. Of the prizes shown there, and the pieces, the first of each collection nowadays spread through the world. It’s an homage to all the people that worked with her, to her parents, that let her be a designer, and a way of people to believe in future professions. Because having that profession in Madeira, thirty years ago, was utopia.

I lean back on the chair, more and more curious as to the date on the table. Before I ask, she launches another of her life’s principles. She doesn’t like boring people, because when she leaves home, everyday, she doesn’t know whether she’ll return, so she lives every day as if it were the last. And she asks people to clear their heads of all that doesn’t matter.

She doesn’t really have a marking moment in her life. She recognizes every single piece she ever created, and knows where they all are, in Miami or Dubai, or in Colombia, a country she fell in love with after, on a first instance, having refused a professional invitation to visit it. She even let the entrepreneurs who invited her know that they could come to Madeira to meet her. She smiles. “They entered my office shortly afterwards to announce that they had come to fetch me to go with them”. She was left with no arguments. And, knowing she is telling me nothing new, she looks to her desk and tells me. On a softer tone. “I did that marvelous hotel, that won the prize as the best hotel in the Americas, Hotel Bog. After that they asked me to do more. There are already eight there”. In a country she swore she would never visit, and where she now feels at home.

“I have the world in my mind”. She smiles again. Before I remind her that even though she carries her works, spread all over the world, in her mind, her heart belongs to Porto Santo. Now I see her soul in her eyes, when she admits she “wouldn’t change it for anything”.

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And then, because curiosity got the better of me, I dared to look again to the date written with a white marker on a corner of her desk, and ask her what happened on October 20th 2016. Nini looks surprised and I point her the date under her elbow. And then she laughs and pushes everything on the table – lots of papers, and samples – away, shrugs her shoulders and answers “nothing, it was the day in which I found this table, a bit scratched, it needed something new, and I called the people from upstairs and the shop to do what they wanted”. And they each drew a little. “And it was great, beautiful, a piece of design, without having to spend any money redoing it”. And they put a date on it.

And this is the person I interviewed. A leader, not a boss. All co-workers know that. She says she’s not cranky, but she is demanding. And especially, she is a friend. “I am not more than anyone else in here, we are all equal. A team, there’s no pyramid”. There’s a line, I say. “Yes, but at one stage, someone has to decide”, she adds.

A big smile on her face, she leans back on the chair. She has energy for all every day. She relaxed for a while, but she quickly went back to her normal rhythm, of wanting to take advantage of every little piece of time in her little corner. To prepare thses “small corners” she gives away, all over the world.

Nini wants to “sign” luxury buildings

By People Who Mark 4.138 Comments

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Designer Nini Andrade Silva wants to start “signing” buildings. In a world where the hotels she designed have spread her name and made her recognized, and after conquering critics, the Madeiran designer known for her links to the pebbles of our beaches – which have sort of become her business card – accepts her next step is a giant’s one.

Nini admitted to “Madeira In & Out” in a recent interview that the time has come for her to do something new, and this is when the idea came up to create luxury housing with buildings “designed by Nini Andrade Silva”. She wants to do new things in life. And this is her new target. “There has to be something new happening”. Supporting this vies, she recalls a story she read as a child, about an old lady sitting in a chair and thinking about how many days she had wasted, and how much she needed them then. “We are all given a credit of days to use, and I don’t want to waste them”. So she is not wasting any time, and is already looking for investors.

The Portuguese designer, to whom awards were granted throughout the world, and who invited for conferences in all continents, received us in one of her passages through the city that saw her born 54 years ago. The result of these small stretches of time in which I discovered the human side of the well known designer can be read here, still this week, in the section “People”.